1. Home
  2. /
  3. News
  4. /

cruise 18

Posted in : Uncategorised on by : AnaÏs Jane Tsang Comments:

THIS IS NOT A DRESS

The tableau appears surreal, camped at the start of a journey whose final destination is still pending, where day and night run simultaneously. Rather than appearing like shadows in the landscape, silhouettes are open windows to an unknown universe. Garments no longer answer to rules or contexts. Fabrics have strayed from their original functions. Volumes defy gravity. With striking trompe l’œil, incongruous juxtapositions, and free associations of opposites, Maison Marie Saint Pierre’s 2018 Cruise Collection breaks free from all bounds. It’s an enigma between heaven and earth, a true expert in the art of mystery. 

Materials are what spearhead such creative momentum. The properties of fibres, technical or fragile, are the starting point of assembly. A black metallic crocheted fabric with bold fraying is featured; silver coated jersey with mirror-like shine invites itself either in a discreet manner, just like a jewel, or in a bold statement. For a more subdued lustre, why not a diaphanous charcoal with bronze accents? Matte textiles are set against all this sparkle. A crêpe with twisted threads brings a unique texture to minimalist pieces. Supple and heavy, it drapes magnificently, creating a fluid, almost liquid movement. A dry fit techno jersey is added to the mix, lending an athletic flair to the most sophisticated outfits. 

Is it a dress, a tunic, a shirt? This collection features a gap between the idea that we have of a piece and its representation. Relaxation or celebration? Marie Saint Pierre deconstructs our relationship to well-being and formality to offer multipurpose hybrid pieces. Oversized jackets and sweaters, embellished with gathers, are as laid-back as they are extravagant. Cocoon coats with three-quarter sleeves and revisited trenches defy seasons and lightly envelop the wearer. Bustiers are omnipresent; worn alone or over a t-shirt, they sculpt the silhouette without obstruction, hugging without smothering. At times, they are but an illusion on a simple cocktail dress playing with opacity and transparency in order to float, as if by magic. 

Through asymmetrical lines, shoulders reveal themselves. Skin emerges from a new perspective, revealed by die cutting. They are surrounded with a halo of amplified undulations, as if to draw attention to areas often overlooked. Geometrical frills emerge on sleeves, highlight the waist at the lower back or serve as neckpieces. Various styles of pockets, a key element of the collection, are also adorned with frills. Hidden kangaroos, exaggerated patches—they are everywhere, lending a deliciously debonair attitude to elegance. Here, elasticized wrists and athletic hemlines are strong staples. Often contrasting, they bring a playful, mischievous note.    

The color scheme imbues an unusual romanticism and a femininity that is both lithe and muscled. Subdued and potent, shades of pink represent sensibility and power. Sandy beige and storm grey create unlikely, perhaps even disconcerting chromatic arrangements. Here and there, a faux grey chalk stripe printed on a black background recalls the brand’s masculine tangent. 

“The real value of art is measured by its capacity for liberating revelation,” said painter René Magritte. Maison Marie Saint Pierre’s 2018 Cruise Collection applies this philosophy to the garment.