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KNOW-HOW: FABRIC CUTTING

Posted in : Uncategorised on by : Maison Marie Saint Pierre Comments:

 

Cutting remains a step fundamentally unknown to the general public and its importance is found in the quality of the product. I can't help but mention a woman whose name and story still remains untold despite the fact that she has been a pioneer in an extraordinary advancement for fashion by inventing the bias cut. Her name, Madeleine Vionnet. Her influence on the evolution of fashion is unprecedented, and the technique she invented to allow more comfort and fluid movement in the garment is, to this day, difficult to master and very expensive.

At Marie Saint Pierre the cut is an important step and even decisive on the final result since most of our garments are assembled with raw seams, which means that there will be no finishing (overlock or lining) to hide inaccuracies. The work is exposed inside and out, vulnerable, in its rawest form. The cut must, therefore, be of surgical precision and be made either by hand or by laser.

The use of the bias cut is also one of the secrets of the house. Although it is much more complex and expensive to do, it allows for a raw finish in certain materials whereas regular cutting does not permit due to fraying and other conditions. The use of bias in stretch materials provides the luxury experience as they become much more graceful and comfortable.

The cut has also a big impact on the House’s ecological footprint, allowing us to maximize the use of raw materials and eliminate overlocking (millions of meters of threads to solidify the garment). The use of lining, which is responsible for the premature aging of a garment, makes the material much more fragile and often degrades its quality.

Profound knowledge of the cut techniques allows us to stand out and to take our creative process from ordinary to extraordinary.